Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-P92 Digital Camera

This review covers Sony DSC-P92 Cybershot Digital Cam

If you are a first time buyer of digital cams, I would recommend to read this essay first:

Most common misconceptions, when buying a digital camera:

http://www.epinions.com/content_3650658436

So you are in the market to buy a Digital Cam:
What should you be looking for ?

1) SPEED !

So you take a lot of pictures of your kids ? You take pictures at sports ? You take pictures at parties?

Let me introduce you to the most important aspect of your digital camera: SPEED !
Three types of speed are important:

Time to start up: You decide to switch the camera on until it is ready.

Shutter lag: Time you push the button until it takes the picture (there is no shutter in the camera anymore, but ...)

Time between pictures: How fast can you take multiple shots? In the old time it was how fast you could transport the film, now it is how fast your camera can store the picture.

I had an analog Olympus miu before and was dead happy with it. 35 mm lens, click shoot done.
When it broke down I bought an Olympus miu zoom.
Click, ssss, ssss, ahem, snap. and my kids had in the mean time left the frame and gone to McDonalds for a sundae... sigh .. to slow..

So I figured , when I go digital I will avoid that shutter lag.
To my amazement it was rather difficult on the www to find someone that would even talk about it, despite the fact that it is REALLY annoying.
Well I finally worked my way through it and discovered the queen of speed: Sony DSC-P92

Shutterlag of 0.26 seconds. (this is measured in normal exposure, so no redeye flash), second only to the Sony DSC-MV1.
Time to take 5 pictures: 7.3 seconds ( now that could do with some improvement, but they have a burst mode that will burst 3 pictures in a row way faster then that)

Other features:

- 5 Megapixel

wohaa, that is plenty, even a bit to plenty as you need to store it all and that costs real money. If you just do 4x6 or 8x10 3 MP is enough. But you can choose 3 MP resolution with this camera.

- MPEG (640 x 480) movie recording with voice

Nice , I am not all excited about it,as a digital video cam does a much better job but a nice memo function. It will look ok on TV, but at 16 frames per second the 'video' stutters.

- 3x optical, 4x digital zoom

Really you should only look at optical zoom, the digital one just cuts a piece out of the picture and thereby reduces resolution. If you start with 5 MPixel, you still have some to give, with a 3 Megapixel camera I would NEVER turn the digital zoom on. Rather cut it out of the larger picture in post processing. Now Sony has found a clever combination of marketing appeal and reasonable approach to digital zoom. The digital zoom capability depends on the resolution setting (what they dubbed 'smart' zoom).

So yes you get digital zoom, no you don't get it with 5 MB.
With the optical zoom being 3x, by adding the digital 4x zoom you get:

5MP 3x
3.1 MP 3.8 x
1.2 MP 6.1 x
VGA 12 x

What does this mean ? Unlike other cams which sport 4x digital zoom at a terrible picture quality, this camera is set to take advantage of the higher resolution 5 MP sensor.
So if you have the 3.1 MP setting at 3x the camera uses the full 5 MP sensor and calculates it down to 3.1 MP. At 3.8x zoom the camera will use the center frame 3.1 MP and record those, effectively cutting the center out of the larger frame in natural resolution (so NO quality loss). Now that is very acceptable. You just don't get the 12x zoom you expected with a 5 MP resolution. (Now that is clever marketing, as they never promissed that , but you assumed it...and on the camera itself they only talk about the 3x optical). In fact, you do get the same 12x zoom you get on any other camera, but the nice feature here is, you select the minimum resolution you are willing to live with upfront, rather then the camera choosing it. Whereas I always recommend to leave the digital zoom off, with this camera I actually will leave it on. (Note, you will get the 'shaky' hand quite often then, letting you know that you can't hold this long a lens by free hand anymore).

Other functions:
- Special effects: Sepia, Solarize, Negative
Why bother ? Always better to take the original picture and then do the effects in post processing on your computer

-Mode Selector: Twilight, Twilight Portrait, Landscape,Snow and Beach
Preset conditions for particular shooting conditions. For Snow it will lighten up the shadows and the picture generally has less of a blueish touch to it.
- Light selector: Sun, Fluorescent, Incandescent for manual white balancing.

- Shooting still images with audio (5seconds)
Could be good to capture image information such as peoples names with the picture

- Voice only recording
Well ...

- Several Burst modes for taking multishots
None of them is equivalent to a motor winder or rapid shoot. In high resolution the maximum is 3 pics in lower resolution 16 pics (but those are to low for decent prints)

- Manual over/under exposure setting
Now that function you want, as it gives you more flexibility when taking pictures under different lighting conditions ( and with digital, you will use this function quite readily)

- Shooting movies:
640 or 160 resolution with sound. Destination WEB, don't think about it as a replacement for your digital video cam. 160 for email looks awful. Very blocky and full of compression artifacts. 640 is decent, but not small enough for mailing.

USB 2.0 port

You need that for fast transfer of large picture files, allthough it is backward compatible to USB 1.1

Low light condition help light:
Red LED that will help the autofocus in night shot conditions and provide enough illumination to see the object on your display. VERY useful, I recommend to demand one on any other camera you choose.

TV Out PAL and NTSC

For direct viewing on the TV

16 MB memory stick

CHEAPskates, that will hold a full 6 (yes six) pictures in high 5 MB resolution and 9 in 3.1 MB resolution.

You need to add a memory stick to your bill,which at following sizes gives you more image holding capability.

Size 3.1 MP 5 MP
128 MB 81 (146) 51 (95)
256 MB 145 (255) 91 (170)
512 MB 296 (518) 186 (345)
1 GB 604 (1058) 380 (705)

Numbers in brackets are pictures stored in 'standard' compression vs. front number being stored in 'fine' compression. Higher compression yields smaller files but some image quality loss, as the algorithms produce losses.
Haven't been able to check what is the best setting yet. Camera is set up in the factory for 3.1 MP and fine resolution. I'd leave it on fine. After all you don't buy a high end point and shoot to throw the quality away in compression. Should also compress faster as it compresses less.

256 MB run about 119 USD and that is in my opinion best balance of picture holding capability and price right now.


NiMh AA rechargeable battery pack.

Standard type easy to get replacements for 6 USD for two .
The camera also runs on AA batteries if you run out of juice. You want that and no propietary battery pack with extra charger etc. You take a propietary battery pack like in the Sony DC-8 or DC-10 and a second back up pack is a hefty 68 USD for a 200 USD camera.... According to Sony, one set is good for 135 to 270 images with this camera. Without flash one set definitely carried me through the 90+ pics you get on the 256 MB memory stick. The included charger can charge 2 batteries at a time. You should have a 4 battery charger really, so you can rotate three pairs through,which will keep you going. When using the flash continuously and while operating the display, you will get about 40 - 50 pictures out of one set.

Driver Disk
Works with Windows from 98 up (note: 98 doesn't support USB 2.0, so slower file transfer) and MAC from 8.5.1 onwards


Weight 260g a bit on the heavier side but OK

Zoom: 38 mm to 114 mm optical (35 mm equivalent)

Really why doesn't anyone offer a 28 mm start point for a zoom ? After all these are mostly used at parties and you can't get everyone on the picture with 38 mm. (Noone has that right now and Sony at least offers a wide angle clip on lens, which will create distortions). The industry has issues with the 28 mm format, as on a pixel sensor the light needs to come in from the front. That requires large lenses and only high end cameras have those. If you buy high end you definitely should ask for 28 mm equivalent start up.

Camera Display: 1.5 mm 123.000 pixels

Not large but SHARP ! You can even see your pictures on 9 image screen menu.

Camera has a plastic housing and looks like all Sony point and shoots, the P-10 line will have a smaller metal body, which I actually like better.

Start-Up time: 3.1 seconds (not blazing but not annoying)

Resolution (ISO 12233) 1.475 LP/BH

This measures the resolution this lens-sensor combination can resolve (smalles line distance that won't blur). Don't worry about it, this lens is SHARP! and fundamentally bigger number is better number.

When Bestbuy had this camera on offer for 299 after rebates I couldn't resist. Normally you get 3 Mega Pixel for this price, here it is 5 and fast speed.

So how do I like it ?
Very much so, camera handles well and the shutter is fast as expected. Picture resolution is awesome.

There is only one camera out there that tops this one.
Sony Cybershot DSC-V1
With a large Zeiss Lens and the same sensor it produces 1500 LP/BH. Slightly higher then the P-92 which illustrates that the LENS is the limiting factor in the industry now, not the sensor resolution. Thereby you will find many high pixel cameras, that produce worse images then their lower pixel count brethrens who have a superior lens.
It is like the computer industry, just having a high MHz processor doesn't mean that you got a faster computer.

The V1 also offers 0.16 sec shutter lag which makes it the king of speed ! Also comes at a hefty 500+ USD, with propietary battery pack and low standby time. All of which convinced me to rather go with the P92.

Operation of the camera:
Easy user interface, can get started even without manual, quality feel to it. Lens retracts and is protected when off. Additional low light autofocus help light is very useful. All the flash modes you want.
Changing resolution is two button push but easy, changing flash mode is one button push each time

Real complaints:

Nag factor number 1:

When you like to replay your pictures on TV directly from the camera, it is important to turn all the portrait mode shots, otherwise your viewers heads are going to rattle loose, trying to adjust to the onscreen picture.
It has this function, but these are the buttons to hit for EVERY picture:
Menu, Rotate,Select, up, up,rotate, down, select OK, Menu
10 buttons for one rotation. A case for repetitive strain injury and poor menu design. If half of your pictures are portraits, on one memory stick you will have 450 clicks !

Just by prepositioning the cursor on the most likely menu item, you could cut this down to the following:
Menu, rotate select, rotate (right or left), OK. and then exit the menu. 4 instead of 10 !!! Who was that menu designer ?
The even smarter way would be to choose pictures in the 9 view screen (mark them) and do an auto rotate macro. After all 99.999% of the pictures will need a rotate right.

Nag factor 2:
The software provided installs like a breeze and no problems with Athlon based systems, as reported on some earlier versions. When the camera is attached, the pictures get transferred automatically and the software opens in the right sub folder. VERY convenient.

What is lacking are two crucial functions in the software:
Red Eye reduction and PRINTING !
You can modify the pictures very nicely, put frames around them and burn them on CD, but no printing ??? Come on guys..
And Red Eye reduction is crucial for anyone who ever plans on taking a flash picture. In these small units the flash is just to close to the lens

Nag factor 3: On the camera every picture is associated with it's resolution, aperture, exposure speed and ASA setting, as well as date taken.. None of the settings seems to transfer to the software side though. Which means you effectively loose it, once you clean your memory stick.

Positive Surprises:

A 3:2 option on the sensor adjustment (4.2 MP effective)
Now why is this a positive surprise ? I like to take the picture in it's final format and used the rear monitor to compose the picture (looking through the lens you have a bit parallax and you actually take a LARGER picture then what you see). When I submitted my pictures for 4x6 print development, quite a few came back 'cropped', i.e. parts left and right or top and bottom were missing from the original picture. When I called Ofoto about this, they pointed out to me, that the camera sensor is a 4:5 aspect ratio and 4x6 prints are a 2x3. So they have to crop the picture (but they accepted my complaint regardless).
So I checked on it and voila. All SMALL cameras have a 4:5 sensor aspect ratio which coincides with your computer monitor screen, all professional SLR cameras have a 3x2 sensor which is equivalent to the old 35 mm format and fits most photo papers. So if you plan to print your pictures, you either accept that they crop two strips on both sides off your original picture, or you have to manually postprocess EACH picture to pick the correct frame. (Bummer I did it on 100 pictures it is NO fun). In comes the 3x2 setting on the Sony. Now you can take a 'real' picture and compose on your little monitor knowing whether this one is going to go to print or on a monitor. Mine is print.
When you flip the resolution, your screen will show two black bars on the top and bottom effectively cropping the picture right there. Now this draws a negative reaction at first,as you are getting LESS picture. But by doing that you know that you got everything ON the picture as it will print, rather then finding out after printing that you lost it. This is very important when taking portraits or closeups, as you can't recover this unless you print the pictures yourself. If you use a print service, you loose it.
So I found this one of the initially unappreciated features that actually makes a LOT of sense.

What you also need to consider: Total Cost of Ownership

So the camera is 300 USD, which is a steal (right now, the camera was 500 USD in summer of 2003 and will be 200 USD by end of next year probably)

The hidden cost are the memory sticks:

You should use at least one 256 MB memory stick and those run 100 - 120 USD each, about 1/3 rd of the total camera ! This size will hold about 90 pictures in high res so the equivalent of 2.5 rolls of film. ( Hi you guys who thought you could save money over film by going digital, for 100 USD you can buy LOTS of film and if you travel on vacation 90 pictures aren't anywhere near enough, so you need a laptop or another memory stick, there go another 100 bucks...)

Please read here, why it is important which memory stick you choose (and why the one you have in the box is the absolutely WORST choice):

http://www.epinions.com/content_145507061380

So I consider this camera mostly for use around an accessible computer. You don't have one, this digital thing will cost you lots of money, or you scale back resolution to 3MP and then about 142 pics will go on one stick, which still requires to offload them on a trip. (Your average number of pics taken will TRIPLE, I promise)


So: Out of a box, this is a well rounded camera with performance that you would have paid over 1000 USD just 2 years ago (amazing isn't it ?). Resolution is high enough that you can go to 10x16 prints off this one and not tell the difference to film.

What would make this camera even better ?
- Shorter shutter lag
( if you can do it in MV1, why not here..)
- At least a 128 MB stick PRO in the package
- At least a cheapo camera carrying case (48 USD individually is a rip off, allthouh there are some at 29 now)
- camera shows only last picture taken at push of a button, I wish I could continue to go backwards as far as I wanted
- camera on/off button recessed into housing . This was an earlier complaint, mine is recessed, so I think Sony has taken care of it now
- hard cover for covering the connectors on the back of the unit, the soft rubber cover doesn't install a lot of confidence
- Faster store away of pictures taken. While daylight pictures store pretty fast, night time and flash pictures take considerably longer, not nagging, but it keeps you waiting (which almost any flash camera will unless you can attach a professional external flash, which you can't with this one, but you can with the Sony MV-1).

- Cheaper memory sticks ( you pay about 30% premium over other techniques and then you loose another 10% on the stick as they take part of the memory for Magicgate (which this camera does not even support)
- Histogram function (shows light distribution in picture, a highly recommended function for the professional user, as you can easily see whether the picture is under/over exposed, what you can't readily see on the included monitor)

- Manual override for shutter speed and aperture.
This is what is really missing for the professional. There is no override for the automatic exposure. That leaves no room to choose speed for action photographers or reduced image depth for the still photographer. The camera will choose adequate speeds for the lens settings and warn you with a 'shaky hand' symbol if you are running in danger to shake it. You can choose ISO speed settings from 100 to 400, which will give you some higher speed settings as a result, but that is a rather crude way of setting it up. It would be nice if Sony would at least include a speed setting that gives you preference for exposure time vs, aperture .

- External flash connector
This is necessary for the avid party photographer, that wants rapid flash response times and the ability to fill larger spaces with light, as well as for the portrait photographer that wants to flash secondary lights. Also by using a remote flash you can avoid the dreaded red eyes.

Note: The built in flash does a very nice job, but it needs some seconds to reload. I never use the red eye. It cuts all response times down and creates the 'dear in the headlight look on peoples faces'. Much better to flash once and take the red eyes out in post processing.

If you take a lot of flash pictures or need more advanced manual settings of aperture and exposure speed, you should take a look at the upscale version from Sony the DSC-V1.

If you are a serious party chronographer that wants to use an external flash, go with the Sony V1, which has a hot shoe. Also read about the issue with slave flashes, that you will run into with digital cameras. Review is here:

http://www.epinions.com/content_125044756100

And finally here is my review on the Sony DSC T1, a nifty little cigarette pack size camera.

http://www.epinions.com/content_167347654276

If you are first time shopper for a digital camera I recommend starting with following basic's article:
Most common misconceptions when buying a digital camera or how much you really need:

http://www.epinions.com/content_3650658436